Print The Porto

A collection of tips about 3d printing.

Blog Posts

Posts 1 to 10 of 19

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How to manually Calibrate a delta machine

The following instructions will allow you to manually calibrate your delta printer. You will need some way to communicate with the printer via a slicer's GCODE terminal. The instructions are for smoothie firmware, but should work for marlin as well. Most of the tutorial is based off this youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDLbqLve128. The video is quite long,… View More

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Quick tips for Octoprint on the Creality CR-10

A quick setup tips for getting Octpprint to work with the CR-10. Make sure you use good quality cables to connect the Pi to the printer and also make sure the power supply to the pi is giving enough power to keep it up and going reliabley. Set the following on octoprint and it should work out great. Baud Rate is 115200 Serial Port has to be set to USB (/dev/tty/USB0), Auto will not… View More

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Z-probe and height configuration for deltas using smoothie firmware

This is a quick method of configuring your delta printer If you're using smoothie firmware and a probe installed. Once you have the basics, rod length, delta radius and approximate height. Verify that your probe works with M119 gcode command. Next, do a G32 to do an auto-calibration. Save with M500. Be aware this save additional info such as extruder steps, which might not be… View More

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How to save a print that is losing supports

I was recently reading though the 3D Printing group on facebook when one of the members, Ken Jones, posted an amazing trick to save a print when the support structure falls off. Just use putty or clay to hold it in place. … View More

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How to calibrate your 3d printer for accurate printing

Most people don't realize it, but you can get reasonably accurate prints with just about any 3D Printer, even with low-end clones. With a little bit of time and measuring, prints can be within .05mm accuracy. Having an uneven X and Y is where a 20mm cube will print 20.5mm on the X-axis and 19.95mm on the Y-Axis and cause circles to be over or under-sized and eleptical. Most machines will come with preset steps configured, based off of… View More

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Printing Ninjaflex TPU filament on the E3D titan extruder

I recently upgraded my eclips3d printer to use an E3D Titan extruder, which has been printing out pretty great once I dialed in all the settings. I needed to print a bunch of rubbery feet for a wire shelf. In the past I've used my printrbot simple to print with ninjflex, so I was curious to try the titan since it is… View More

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How to calibrate extrusion width

First make sure you've calibrated your e-steps. Using a digital caliper, measure the thickness of your filament at 5 different points and get the average. You'll find most filament is not actually 1.75mm in width, but usually less. Enter the measured filament diameter in your slicer. Download a 20mm calibration cube from… View More

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e3d volcano hot end tips

Getting good prints with a e3d volcano hot end can be very tricky. But I've figured out a couple of base rules to follow that can help with printing. For my example, we'll be using a 0.8mm nozzle/width. Step right or step off First thing first, this guide is totally useless if you haven't properly calibrated your extruder steps. I explain how to easily do that… View More

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True print speed

Ever wondered what the true print speed really is when you add in all of the factors. Found this great explination from Solidoodle forums http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9985/e3d-volcano-slicer-settings/page/2/ true print speed = feedrate * layer height * layer width Print head types: jhead =… View More

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Updating your Printrbot firmware to use e3d v6 thermistor

I wanted to update to the firmware on my printrbot simple metal to the latest as of this writing (August 7, 2015), for the Rev F version 5 boards on Mac osX. Here's a handy download of the simple metal hex file. There is a excellent write up on the whole process at… View More